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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 6:46 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 1:00 am
Posts: 1673
Location: Manhappening, KS
Why the 1uzfe?
-It's cheap. A lower mileage motor can be had from a junkyard for $500 or less. The complete swap won't cost you more than $3,200. (without Y pipe)

-It's reliable. Look up early 90's LS400s forsale and you'll notice a ton with over 225k miles. I've seen upwards of 310K.

-It's light. Weighs in at around 400lbs (minus trans). That's only 30lbs heavier than a KA24DE without the transmission, 100lbs lighter than a VH45. With KA/SR transmission it weighs within 10lbs of a sr20det swap (with transmission).

-It fits. Tightly on the passenger side and the header must be modded to clear the steering column, but you don't have to cut your hood like a VH45.

-Pretty good powerlevel. 250HP/260TQ.

I could not in good conscience swap in a sr20det for a street car with occasion track duty for the amount of money it would cost to achieve the same power level and reliability of the 1uz. I will say that if I was trying to be competitive in AutoX or something similar the sr20 would be the better swap. The 1uz puts you in the same class as light cars with LSx motors.


How to Wire the 1991 LS400 1UZFE to a 1995 240sx

Purchase a couple fuse blocks.
1x http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bss-s8202-4/overview/

Optional
Get a handful of relays. I got some from ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PACK-12V-12- ... 462260365a

Make sure you have a spare engine harness to cannibalize. You'll need the dash plug and harness for wipers. It's helpful to have the transmission (lower) harness as well. I did not so I bought individual plugs/pigtails from www.wiringspecialties.com

This website has the pinouts for every plug on the s14.
http://forums.240sxone.com/showthread.php?t=7091

Use your FSM (you can find it online) to verify what the plugs are.

Use this website to find your wiring diagram for the 1uz: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id= ... mc4Q0VxOUk


Like I said, 1991 LS400 1uzfe. The same as 1990-1992 if I remember correctly. After 1992 they switched to a different ECU pinout. But if you follow my directions and get the correct wiring diagram for the 1uz, you'll have no problem with wiring it up.

The plugs are numbered according to the wiring diagram, so that's why it jumps around. I was missing #2 plug, so I had to make my own pin for Battery power. IL1 is one of the 1uz's dash plugs. You'll splice about everything into this.

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Wiring

Ecu battery power.
M63/F3 (240sx Dash harness) Pin 9 (Red wire) to a fuse block. 20A fuse. From the fuse block connect it to pin 26 on 1uz Plug 2 (my missing plug).

B+ power. (Stuff to make it run)
M63/F3 Pin 39. Grey/Orange wire to fuse block. 20A Fuse. From fuse block to IL1 pin 5. White Wire.

IGNSW. (Say's "Hey! I'm ready to do stuff!)
M63/F3 Pin 1. Black/Red wire to fuse block. 10A Fuse. From fuse block to 1uz plug 1 pin 1.

STA/NSW. (12V+ to allow the starter/ecu the okay to start doing stuff)
You can connect this directly to the NSW/STA wiring that comes from either the ECU plug (don't cut it, it needs to stay connected) or trace the wire around the left side to the starter signal wire.

Connect 1uz Startersignal wire or NSW wire from IL1 to E201/E17 Pin 2, Black/Yellow (manual chassis) or E203/E16 Pin 2, Black/Yellow (auto chassis)

Injector Power
M63/F3 Pin 1, Black/Red wire to fuse block to IL1 pin 13, Black/Red wire.

Tach
M63/F3 Pin 18, Yellow/Red wire to IL1 Pin 18, Black/Yellow wire.

Coolant Temp
M63/F3 Pin 20, Yellow wire to IL1 Pin 14, Yellow/Green wire.

Starter power
Located the starter power wire. It's a thick black wire around the left side of the engine. Connect it to your battery or a power block.

Alternator
(1JZ circle Alt plug works from wiringspecialties.com)
Run a wire from M63/F3 Pin1 to the Alternator plug for IGN power, to start the alternator up.
Connect your factory alternator charge cable.
E202/E19 Pin 1, Yellow wire is the alternator regulator cable.
E202/E19 Pin 5, White/Red wire is used for the Alternator charge light

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Fuel Pump
The factory S-Chassis ECU grounds out M63/F3 Pin 27, Black/Pink wire. Use a relay to mimic this effect.
Use M63 Pin 32, Orange wire, to give the relay switched power, which will cause it to ground out. This also makes it safe incase of an accident and your engine shuts off.


Engine and Transmission Mounting

Alot of companies offer engine mounting and transmission adaption components.

http://collinsadapters.com/index.php
I personally use Collins' mounts, but that was all that was available at the time. He offers a complete kit, but I think its an ebay clutch. I pieced together my setup. So cannot comment on the quality.

http://www.xatracing.com/
XAT offers solid products and has the best looking clutch throwoutbearing sleeves.

Zilvia member turtle m3th offers products as well. His mounts allow you to use your factory engine mount so it's not completely solid. Probably the best choice for engine mounting.

Transmission
For KA/SR transmissions:

I used a circuit sports transmission mount, 5 speed trans crossmember and used one bolt on each side to mount the crossmember through the guide hole to the rear hole on the chassis. I feel this is fine, since the solid mounts are really whats holding the transmission up anyway.

Your stock clutch line will reach for this setup.

You have to grind the upper part of the transmission to make space for the starter to engage. you will also have to grind the bolts that hold the starter on the 1uz down a little to allow the transmission adapterplate to fit.
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Clutch/Flywheel

For the flywheel purchase one from XAT or brett collins. Whatever. Or have a 3sgte one modified. (flywheel bolt holes extended)

For the clutch: Use a 3sgte Pressure Plate and the respective transmission (KA/SR) Clutch Disk.

7mge ARP Flywheel bolts
RB26 ARP Clutch Plate bolts

The 1uz comes with 2 flex plate spacers. Use the fat one beneath your modified flywheel.

Driveshaft
Driveshaft shop will make you one for about $350. Just get your measurements. They can walk you through it.

Powersteering
The KA24E powersteering line bolts right up.
OR
For powersteering:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-130606ERL Powersteering hose.

To s-chassis steering rack:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-991954ERL

To 1UZ powersteering pump (LS400 style) (You'll need to add a couple washers to this, otherwise it'll bottom out in the pump):
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-9919DFJERL
This is it threaded in all the way without the washers.
Image


90degree elbows that connect to the lines and the aforementioned adapters you need two of these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-139106ERL



Headers

Can't help too much. Either have the factory ones modified. Driverside needs to be brought in towards the block some and then wrap around the steering shaft. Passenger side needs the EGR hole blocked and lengthend a little. Or purchase the 2uz Ebay headers- http://www.ebay.com/itm/M2-Performance- ... 7b&vxp=mtr, Which still must be modified.

That's really all you need for the basics!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:44 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 1:00 am
Posts: 1673
Location: Manhappening, KS
How I bought the POS.
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Had a s14 SR20det that was blown. I wasn't about that life plus I was hurting for cash before leaving for the military.
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After being out of the country for two years I returned to bring her to Kansas. Where I purchased a 1uzfe from Clain and got my transmission adapter kit and engine mount set up before traveling the continental united states to Upstate New York.
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Had a pretty bad rear main seal and upper oil pan leak.

Got her home in the garage in NY. Bought a construction site propane heater. It gets to -30 here in the winter so it was nice to have that thing keep temps near 65+
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Cut the return line for the powersteering to be adapted to the 1uz. Pretty cool that the ls400 powersteering pump/tank is one unit.
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Wiring took a while to figure out. Bought an electric fire extinguisher just in case hahahha.
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Got the stock headers modified to fit. My buddy from zilvia did it. Really a shame he wont do it anymore. $200 bucks is a good deal. To have them made from scratch you're looking at $550+
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Removed the emissions bullshit. Really cleaned up the engine.
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3sgte Stage 2 clutch plate, ka24de stage 2 pressure plate, Aluminum 3sgte flywheel.
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The coolest part about my engine can never be seen. My powersteering line and AN fittings.
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Fuel tank ended up being cracked. Found a replacement at a wreck yard. It had been waiting for me to pick up for 4 years!
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Had to drill out a wheel stud. The threads that are in the hub had rubbed off. This was caused by my wheel studs shearing and losing a wheel while traveling to NY from Kansas.
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I noticed that my subframe had been rocking a little. OH! My subframe bushings had completely ripped. Swapped out with PBM Subframe risers.
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Bought some wheels. 17x9+20. Gonna rock some 245/40s. I want a little meat this go around.
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Started making V8 Noises. Sorry for the long video. I'm just waiting on another set of tires and my driveshaft to arrive.


More to come soon!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 10:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:34 pm
Posts: 1326
Location: Olathe, KS
I'm diggin' it. Did you mention a trip to Kansas?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:35 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Joined: Fri Apr 11, 2008 1:00 am
Posts: 1863
Location: Need to know basis.
Nice write up!

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Looking for a clean s14 shell, no roller. Straight quarters/roof/frame rails. <$1000
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What do I like more than working? ... mmm ... DRIVING!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:02 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 1:00 am
Posts: 1673
Location: Manhappening, KS
Thanks boys.
There's a chance that I may be moving back to Kansas to go to school. We shall see though. I mean honestly, if you were debt free and had the chance to go to any college in the US of A for free, would you come back to Kansas?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 4:44 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 1:00 am
Posts: 1673
Location: Manhappening, KS
Got everything buttoned up. Start the car, put in first.... No power to the rear wheels.

After some investigation and thinking maybe a broken input shaft, I realized that my pilot bushing adapter did not come with the actual pilot bushing. So I ordered one of them from nissanparts.cc. It'll be here Friday. THEN I'll be able to drive it.
The great thing about NY is they dont give a shit it hasnt been registered for 4 years. No back payments. Oh yeahhh.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 12:20 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 1:00 am
Posts: 1673
Location: Manhappening, KS
http://youtu.be/3PFXqIDdJ3A
Maiden Voyage.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 12:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:34 pm
Posts: 1326
Location: Olathe, KS
8O


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 6:23 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 1:00 am
Posts: 1673
Location: Manhappening, KS
Another video, outside dah cah.

http://youtu.be/N66x86QSwNU

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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2016 12:00 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 1:00 am
Posts: 1673
Location: Manhappening, KS
The S14 is for sale. While it's in NY, I'm willing to ship to Kansas for the full asking price. ($3500)

I decided to adult the fuck up. Well kinda.
Say hello to my new toy.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 1:04 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2015 4:45 am
Posts: 7
Well at least you got the good stang! I dig. :mrgreen:


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