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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:34 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Bartlesville, OK
My car Minty came into my possession less a motor. Since then it has had two engines in its bay: an SR20 - Failed, and the current KA-T - Awesome. Well as with all good things, they for some reason or another come to an end. This story is no different. Around this time last year my brother and I were discussing motor swaps, and Steve brought up doing a VK56 with a z33 trans behind it. Initially we were thinking we would find an S13/14 shell and use it to perfect the swap, but current living arrangements and transport of the cars made it a silly venture. So what do you do, you use what you have. So for the third time in its brief history my car will go back under the knife for the sake of awesomeness! Cue 1980s jumping high fives!

Some of you maybe wondering what will become of the KA-t, no fretting needed. A few months back Steve and I purchased a motorless/titleless S13 shell from a member of this glorious forum. This car was purchase for the sole intent of becoming "missile car". Lets face it, Steve and I need something we can care a bit less about in terms of body condition. We have both owned beaters which we quickly did body and paint work too. So to all you newb drifters, leave that wreck haggard, and have fun with it - my 2 cents. Anyway the turbine housing will be swapped for a faster spooling unit which will put it down in power, but should make it fun like the Matsuri car we both enjoyed to no end.

Enough about that sweat heap, lets get on back to the reason I am even posting. Finding a motor and trans with ecu, a/c, p/s, intake, and all the rest of the necessary bits for a motors wap took about a month. Not to say you couldn't find one faster but I really didn't want to buy good motor knowing I would be cutting, grinding, and welding around this motor. The motor we found came with low mileage and a knock. The gentlemen at the Joplin, MO wrecking yard said he had seen the rods bend in roll overs and as time would tell he was right. No harm done though, this was the perfect price for what we wanted upon initial investment. This left me to start pulling out the old and trial fitting the new.

As I began this endeavor, and endeavor is the correct word, I began to wonder why I do this to myself. I honestly do believe I just like to be busy, enjoy fabricating and furthering my abilities. On that note ---> Roll that beautiful bean footage:

On the way back from Joplin, MO questioning if this is a smart move:
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Rolling home from last event Minty ran:
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Out with the old KAT in with the "new" VK56:
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Testing the adapter on the block:
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Then on the CD009 Transmission:
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Unsuspecting KAT about to get the boot:
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Dropping the new hotness:
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Touchdown!!!!
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No surprise, intake manifold will have to get redone later:
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H/I-beams ain't got nothing on the new "S" connecting rod:
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Where the knocking was coming from:
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Last edited by Greg on Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:37 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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I feel like this build has more work than my pictures show. Haha. I have over 200 pictures of this swap but a ton of them are for reference for when I reinstall, etc. So anyway it looks like I left on just before I started working on the motor mounts and cutting the oil pan.

Motor mounts - these ended up taking some time as I had goals I wanted to accomplish. My initial goals were to mount the engine as low and far back as possible and have a good fore/aft angle; next was to try to clear the brake booster.

I did ended up mounting the motor low and back. It clears the radiator with G20/Altima fans (barely). Unfortunately the brake booster had to be removed. I tried and tried to make it work with the stock unit but just couldn't get the clearance for it. If anyone knows of a 7" dual diaphragm Nissan unit I would be interested. The current plan is to ditch the booster and just run a Wilwood master cylinder in its place.

Oil Pan - This things has been the biggest pain in the whole swap as you will see. I was very tentative in my cutting of the pan, never wanting to cut more than was absolutely needed. Ends up the whole bottom needs to go. I just wish I would have had a reciprocating saw sooner as it made my life easy. It was able to get some of the deeper areas cut. Instead I did most of it with my right angle grinder (RIP ol' buddy) and my hacksaw. FML. Got it done though.

Initial modified stock vk56de motor mounts:
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Mocked mount Version 1:
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Mocked Mount Version 1:
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Mocked Trans Mount Version 1:
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Attempting to clear booster. Maybe I can mod the valve cover down the road, but plastic welding scares me:
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Clearing booster another angle:
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Fan to motor clearance:
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Motor to cross-member clearance:
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Rack to trans adapter clearance:
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Oil Pan to sway bar clearance:
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Oil Pan starting to get cut:
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Profile of cut oil pan:
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Off and running again...

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Last edited by Greg on Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 10:10 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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I am feeling frisky tonight so I am going to do a double post, WOOOO HOOOOO!

So early on in the build and sometime before that I have been interested in CNC. Due to this build though I was forced to actually do something about it. I wanted to start basic and through some google searching I found Sketch-Up. It is easy to learn and for what I was needing it works great. Here are a few different parts for the build:

Exhaust flange idea stage:
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Exhaust flange version 1:
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Exhaust flange version 2:
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Exhaust flange version 3:
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Exhaust flange version 4:
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Exhaust flange version 5:
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Exhaust flange in .dxf:
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Intake flange on paper:
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Attempting different ways to get accurate enough oil pan dimensions:
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Oil pan started:
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I am by no means a wiz at this but with a little practice it keeps getting easier.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 5:56 am 
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Proven Drifter
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In an effort to organize my photobucket I broke the links accidentally. Will fix tonight.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 3:58 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Blue Springs
Greg wrote:
In an effort to organize my photobucket I broke the links accidentally. Will fix tonight.


No u fix them now!!!!!! I was wondering what you've been up to. What version of the vk56 is it? The DE or VD? I believe we have both versions in the states....

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 9:02 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Skyline wrote:
No u fix them now!!!!!! I was wondering what you've been up to. What version of the vk56 is it? The DE or VD? I believe we have both versions in the states....


Fixed!! lol

It is a 2006 VK56DE from a Titan. The VD's are just too new and too expensive coming from the Infiniti line. The DE is much more common and thus price is WAAAYYYYY better. I really would like to compare the two motors side by side because the VD uses a front sump pan which would lend itself much better to the swap. Supposedly the VD is a whole new motor that was design in Japan - I think, don't quote me on that. I would love to know if the cams are better or swap-able. The list goes on. Maybe in due time Steve or I will stumble upon a cheapish VD.


I might as well post while I am here fixing stuff, right? RIGHT!

Well, after cutting the oil pan and bit prior too, Steven and I had begun talks of getting a pretty crucial bit of welding equipment. A big thanks goes to Miller for making a cost effective TIG welder with a baller warranty. I will say it doesn't have any crazy extra controls, but it is inverter technology and allows it to run low amps (under 30) which is the same as most laundry dryers. Plus I don't know how to utilize the extra controls anyway!

On a personal level, this was a intimidating decision. I myself had never touched a TIG welder until this arrived. I had to learn a new way to weld. I will not accept good welds, I pride myself on my welding. So I knew I was in for a few nights of working out the movements and timing. Little did I know it would be about 3 weeks. I think I will finally know I can TIG when I am not ashamed to hashtag my weld on Instagram #weldporn. All in due time, I am only a couple months in now and continually improving.

Miller Welds:
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I love opening new stuff:
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Hello there:
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The front panel. Simple is great for the beginner:
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My first welds with the machine. I thought they looked like shit. Oh, wait, you need to run gas?! My first few welds were hindered because I hadn't set up gas flow on a machine in so long I forgot about the gas drop when you start welding. haha FAIL:
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My first try at aluminum and subsequent tries:
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Getting there. I got the gas running right, my cleaning action is much improved, heat is more consistent:
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This is a little later. I got the above positive, and I am starting to work on spacing of the rings:
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 11:53 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Independence
Tig welding is fun. But I need a smaller machine, picked up a used synchrowave 250 not too long ago. And it's about 500+ lbs.
I would love to get a newer inverter tig. Lighter than my mig.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 8:25 am 
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AkaZero wrote:
Tig welding is fun. But I need a smaller machine, picked up a used synchrowave 250 not too long ago. And it's about 500+ lbs.
I would love to get a newer inverter tig. Lighter than my mig.



Wholly Smokes! Yeah I knew they were big but that thing is made to weld all day long, non stop. It was an option we looked at but the simplicity for me being a first time user and the amps were what made the Diversion 180 the go to choice. I think in the future if we ever get to a shop and have 200 or 300 amp service a larger machine would make sense.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 7:00 pm 
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Sometimes when you are building something, you have to depart from the actual project to build other "stuff" that will help you to better complete your task. Thankfully I had a pile of metal I had purchased from a failed project that could now get used.

I now had a TIG welder and no good way to sharpen the tungsten electrodes. So, I did some quick research *cough, Google* and found a bench grinder with a drill is the preferred method. I already had a cordless drill so I picked up a bench grinder from the local big box store. The grinder looked pretty good out of the box but not so good on the floor. So surprise, surprise the bench grinder needed a small bench.

Next, was to address how to mobilize the TIG welder. I drug that thing around the garage for about a month before I figured I would put together a cart. Why? I don't know. But when you have one new weld cart it makes you want another to match. So I built one for the MIG too.

Finally, there was the issue of a small welding table. I had been tig welding the the most random places and couldn't concentrate of the feed, food, and heat that well. So I grabbed an old stool I had floating in the garage and figured the table height from that.

I made all the items as light as possible. Most things are made from 1/2" or 3/8" round bar, and 1" x 1" square tube. The best part is the time involved is a weekend, and the progress you will make from them will be strides better.

These small projects helped to forward progress and quality so much. They were that little something extra in extraordinary! HAHA Name that movie!

The start of new bits of awesome:
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The grinder on its new digs:
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The reason you want the grinder in the first place:
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The TIG cart:
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The MIG cart:
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Finally the TIG Table:
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Last edited by Greg on Sat Oct 12, 2013 9:31 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 1:17 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Independence
I really need a table.
Mig welding on the floor is a pain.
Tig welding on an old table with the door off of a computer case for the ground is also a pain. :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 7:02 am 
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Proven Drifter
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AkaZero wrote:
I really need a table.
Mig welding on the floor is a pain.
Tig welding on an old table with the door off of a computer case for the ground is also a pain. :lol:


The cost of the two sticks of round bar and the flat sheet is prolly 30-40 if bought from Lowes, but if you got a cheaper supplier then it really makes since to make a small table. If I had loads of dollars to burn - Miller has a nice collapsible table.

Miller table currently with free shipping.
http://store.cyberweld.com/miar30weta30 ... 7AodMG0AHg

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 8:20 am 
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Proven Drifter
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I have been wanting to get another post up, but I have been torn with how I wanted to present things: Objectively or Chronologically. It seems most people post chronologically but the way my build has gone it is very scattered. Example being: I started the oil pan, but don't have the sheet material to complete, so I move to the power-steering setup, but then hit a road block on it, so then bump over to headers and so on. So my thought was to progress the build objectively. Also, I think it will work out good to for those that want to reference a picture or post.

First up, is the power-steering setup. Why is this first? Honestly it was between this and the headers as I have both of them to a point I can make a jig off them and make the final part.

Oh yeah, I never mentioned that! I really hate having my parts look like the "trial and error" pieces that come from a project such as this. So all parts made currently are actually just to be used to test fit, initial start up, and will then be used to make jigs so that I can replicate the trial piece. This way the finished product has fewer cuts, cleaner welds and overall more factory looking.

Back to the power-steering. It may seem unrelated but I have wanted A/C in my fun car for sometime. So a VK56 power-steering relocation to the a/c location wasn't going happen. Also I wasn't keen on going to the MR2 pump right now as it was pretty expensive and just seemed unnecessary now that I had the ability to weld aluminum. So I decided to work with what I had, a really oily power-steering/alternator bracket. The issue with the pumps currently location is the P/S pulley will hit the battery box and the front apron under the battery box, it does clear the lower "frame" box section though. The pump had room to move in and down towards the block and alternator, but would it be enough. It turns out it is, just barely. I will say if you are running a tube front end with the apron sheet metal removed forward of the strut tower you will be able to run an unmodified power-steering/alternator bracket. The other option would be to cut a relief in the front apron for the pulley sit in. This last option was strongly considered with the use of a formed piece of aluminum to keep road water/dirt from entering the belt drive. If my current set up fails, expect this to occur next.

Also if anyone knows of a smaller pulley that will fit the VK P/S pumps splines, would you please post up what year, make, model it is from. I would like to try this route as well.

Lets get to some picture as my work can then just be used for reference.

Stock PS location. (huge pulley on the far left)
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Stock PS location clearance - front.
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Stock PS location clearnance - overhead.
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About where I want it to be.
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Taking it slow, removing parts of the brackets as the pump contacts it.
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Realized the front needs a new piece altogether.
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Front of bracket removed.
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Getting artsy around the bolt hole.
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Rear bolt hole getting relocated to new home.
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New clearance to front apron. Kind of bad angle more room that it shows.
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All lined up.
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Last edited by Greg on Sat Oct 12, 2013 9:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 9:21 am 
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
Nice work brotherrrrr!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 8:02 am 
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420 hp is what the new M56xS has with a VK. I would love to hear this beast roar!

Ps I work at Infiniti so I'm cerious about other VK56 you are talking about

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 10:04 am 
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melvingoku wrote:
420 hp is what the new M56xS has with a VK. I would love to hear this beast roar!

Ps I work at Infiniti so I'm cerious about other VK56 you are talking about



I have a question for you. Do you know if the vd56 and vk56 oil pans are interchangeable?

I doubt they are but I would love a definitive yes or no.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 11:34 pm 
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You mean VK56VD oil pan fitting on a VK56DE block brother man.

Melvin, you get any discount on parts or have access to warrantied parts? Any VD oil pans around???

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 6:36 am 
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That is what I mean.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 11:27 pm 
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I can try to find out. I honestly didnt even know about the VD tho.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 11:28 pm 
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Is the VD in the newer QX56's?

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1989 240sx hatch silver-my first love<3
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1990 240sx coupe-Sold
1988 Supra-traded
1994 Q45(VIP BOSS)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 11:30 pm 
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OH on a side note I WOULD LOVE TO SWAP A VK56DE in my Q45. lol Q56! YUM :)

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1989 240sx hatch silver-my first love<3
1993 grand am-gone
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1988 Supra-traded
1994 Q45(VIP BOSS)


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 8:19 pm 
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melvingoku wrote:
Is the VD in the newer QX56's?


It is, but it uses the same oil pan we currently have. The M56 is the only VK56 to use a front sump pan, sooo you could compare the QX56 pan to the M56 pan.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 9:57 pm 
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Well, that was a longer break than I previously expected. I have been making strides in the swap so when that happens I tend to get caught up. I have been working on the first set of permanent motor mounts. A couple of braces and that post will be coming.

As mentioned last time, the headers are the next item I have in a state where they will become the templates for the final pieces. As with most everything thing, there are a few revisions in the process. I started with the collectors in one place then moved them beside the transmission. The drivers header got remade entirely once, followed by getting half redone before working decent now. This is my first fore into header making. It is like a puzzle that you have the start and finish, but no middle. I am sure they will get tweaked a bit more when I am making the final set.

This like everything done on the build was discussed at great length between Steve and I. We looked at piping size, equal versus unequal length, material, coatings, powerband range, etc. What we attempted to do was focus power through out the power band. We decided to use steel 1-5/8" piping with an unequal length header and ceramic coated or wrapped. Unequal length headers seem to keep power in the mid range and add a bit on either end. The piping size should make good mid range power as well. Stainless seemed to expensive to mess with since we may change pipe sizing later. The one thing I was really sad to see get this ax this go round was a tri-y header. This is something I really want to revisit in the future.

The Start:
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The bends in the box:
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Stock Vk56de Header:
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Only need the stock flange. Later I will get new flanges cut:
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Here are the two flanges laid over each other. You can see what I removed with the die grinder, so much metal got stuck in my hands while doing this:
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This was where I initially wanted the collectors, but there just wasn't enough room to maneuver the pipes around the steering shaft and into the collecter without many extra cuts:
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Drivers side header version 1. I felt this lay out just didn't work:
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Version 1 fit up in chassis:
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Driver side header version 2. This version got nixed due to the pain of the extra cross in the pipes:
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Version 2 fit up in chassis:
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Drivers side header version 3. Pretty happy how this has come out. I look forward to the finished piece:
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The passenger side header went pretty quick. I would like to rework the rear pipe to tighten it up to the rest:
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Here is the rear view of the set up, with the driver side version 2:
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This is the most important part of all, A/C!!!:
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2013 2:44 pm 
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That is neat. Unequal length should sound neat too.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2013 3:16 pm 
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AkaZero wrote:
That is neat. Unequal length should sound neat too.


It will rain on my parade is it sounds weird. Haha

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 9:12 am 
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Here comes another tale of struggle and intrigue, masked with deception and mystique....hmmmm, wrong story. hahaha

Sometimes a guy just wants a awesome intro!

Well it has been another busy couple of weeks...at Gas Monkey Garage. hahaha.

Ok, I am done, moving along.

These past two weeks have gone awesome. Built stuff, Rebuilt others, trick or treated, helped a co-worker, and just all around hustled. I want to revisit the headers real quick since it is an update to the previous installment.

As noted previously, I wanted to tighten up my headers. I originally thought this would be a one tube ordeal aka passenger side number 4. Yeahhhhh, well as with most things it didn't go that way.

It was time to test fit the headers and new awesome-town motor mounts together at the same time. Install motor mounts, things are going good, install header....clunk...pissssssss. Jump to the other side. Install motor mounts, things are going good, install header....clunk...pissssssss. On both sides, both pieces are making contact. Decision time, remake motor mount or headers? Move one pipe or move six to eight. Easy or Hard. I really like the motor mounts simplicity, and I knew the headers were to be tweaked anyway. So I chose the lets-rebuild-six-to-eight-pipes way, duh! I would be interested to know what you fine people on the other side of screen would have chosen.

They ended up coming out even better than before. Very nice and tidy. Please ignore all the cuts. All the pipes follow preformed bends basic shapes so they should be about the same when I make the final headers.

This has really become its own post. So I will get a motor mount one up next. Enjoy the photos!

Unfortunately, I never got a picture of the version 2 driver side header on the block, so it is harder to see the changes. Driver side V2 top - V3 bottom:
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You can really see the differences on the passenger side since they are both on the block at the same angle. Quality of photo is due to PICStich. Passenger side V2 top - V3 bottom:
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Driver's Side better quality. You can see my 3" pipe in there for steering shaft clearance:
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Passenger's Side better quality:
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Headers from the front:
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Headers from the rear:
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