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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 2:57 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Nerfherder wrote:
Nerfherder wrote:
Hopefully in a week or so we will start to see better temperatures.

Nevermind. I was fucking wrong! Packing the UHaul to move to San Diego right now!


Goes to San Diego... car not legal anymore.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 3:23 pm 
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As long as it has Missouri plates it is!!!!

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 10:12 am 
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So, I finally had a day off with nice weather and no prior commitments!
Drove car to all three Pick n' Pulls yesterday and didn't find anything. Not that I was really looking for anything in particular. Just looking.
Came back to Lee's Summit and went to my storage unit. Miraculously found everything I was looking for!
Jacked the car up and put the jack stands under. Took out the drive shaft and replaced it with the original from the car. Still want another one though. Then I reinstalled the rear sway bar with new Energy suspension end links from AutoZone. Finally I raised the car about an inch in the rear so there is about 1/2 inch of clearance from top of tire to bottom of fender. Now it doesn't look like the trunk is full of engine blocks.
After cleaning up my mess, I test drove the car down 50 hwy and back to check for the vibration. So far I haven't heard it, or felt it.
Has anyone ever replaced the carrier bearing on an S13 driveshaft? How difficult or easy is it? And what about the U-joints? As far as I know they aren't serviceable or replaceable, although I think some auto parts stores sell replacements? Is this true? Wonder what a driveshaft shop would charge to rebuild a shaft with new U-joints and a carrier bearing? Any ideas are welcome!

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:32 pm 
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Carrier is a bitch without the proper tools, but it can be done with a cutoff wheel and an air hammer. U joints are definitely serviceable. I think the driveline shop out here charges about 75$ in labor to replace all joints and carrier but you will have the cost of parts too.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 3:09 pm 
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Buy a 1 piece drive shaft instead of going through all that hassle. Carrier bearing on rock auto was like $80 + install labor.
And the u joints are non replaceable on a lot of Japanese cars.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 11:03 am 
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Just went and looked at my spare driveshaft. Ive never seen a ujoint that's not serviceable. but it definitely is NOT.
Get a one piece, my 56 driveshaft was $200 from inland truck here in olathe.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:52 pm 
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Good to know, thanks fellas!

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:21 pm 
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Update: There was still a vibration around 2900 rpm on the highway afterwards. So after putting up with it for two more weeks, I changed the driveshaft out again back to the one previously in the car. Also swapped diffs out. Had an S14 viscous in there and changed it back to the S13 with J30 internals/S13 ring gear. No more vibrations. Problem is, the diff isn't limited slip anymore. Its acting like an open. Wheels spinning opposite directions while on jackstands and leaving only one tire mark. I have a WTB thread started looking for another S13 pumpkin so I can swap internals and shim it (or weld it). I'd really rather not weld it though. Gonna put new bearings and seals in the new pumpkin when I get one and do something with the internals. Viscous, welded, or 2 WAY CLUTCH TYPE!!!!!
Nothing else to really update. BTW, don't drive the car without diff fluid. Makes a nasty noise after a minute! LOL. Whoops! This isn't why it acts like an open though. It did it before I drove it!

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 9:42 am 
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So, in the near future I'm going to be needing a few things you all wouldn't expect me to.
Off the top of my head here goes.
KAE turbo manifold, KAE engine harness, a lot of rattle can paint, and a KAE turbo bearpaw tune!
More to follow when I have more details. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:17 am 
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If I ever find a tig welder...... I want to make manifolds.

Or melvin had a kae turbo mani for sale.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:46 am 
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Good to know. Thanks Galen!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 9:42 pm 
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Update: Today I put the viscous internals into the S13 pumpkin I got from Ride240. Installed the diff and filled it with fluid. The car hasn't ran this smooth and quiet for a long time! No more rear end vibration!
Time now for a tune up and get ready for the May event!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 10:17 pm 
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Saw this picture on the web tonight while searching for pics of SQUARE Wheels Model G6 17x9 +15. Just so happens that this is the exact stance and look I'm going for. It helps the vision that its white too!
Image

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:39 pm 
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smaller sidewall, camber, and low will help that car alot

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:54 pm 
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melvingoku wrote:
smaller sidewall, camber, and low will help that car alot


As it sits, it looks like a pretty serious time attack or autocross competitor. I like the look.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:57 pm 
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The car pictured is exactly what look I am going for. Although I'm sure it would be lower. Rolled fenders tucked tire. Rob, these are the wheels we were talking about. I like the aggressive stance too. I don't think it has to be slammed and scraping to look good. Here's a link to the NICO page. http://forums.nicoclub.com/1991-240sx-built-ka-t-roll-cage-cold-a-c-daily-drifter-t571043.html
Here are its specs as pictured:
Square Wheels G6 Model 17x9" +15mm all around
215/45/17 Tires
Alignment:
8.0* Front Caster
-4* Front Camber
Stock Front Toe
-0.5* Rear Camber
Stock Rear Toe

Camber sucks. I hate it. It looks retarded.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 10:00 pm 
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Nerfherder wrote:
Camber sucks. I hate it. It looks retarded.


I'm much happier with my stance since I went to -.5 rear camber. I need it all up front though, so that's still 3.2-3.3.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 10:13 pm 
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I'm talking about the stupid retarded camber that looks like you have 50 million lbs. in the trunk of the car and the axles are about to break. Useful camber on the other hand is necessary!
I'm amazed at how few new posts have been on the forum over the last two days. I know we had a meet that we couldn't make it to, but my goodness.
I thought for sure more people would be interested to know why I'd be interested in obtaining KAE parts! :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 10:29 pm 
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I don't have a clue why you'd need SOHC parts, but I figured you'd tell us when you're ready to reveal the surprise. :)


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 5:44 pm 
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its bc the sohc is better then a dohc duh!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 5:58 pm 
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melvingoku wrote:
its bc the sohc is better then a dohc duh!

Uh, nope!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:02 pm 
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Car started acting up on the way home from work today. Noticeabre ross of power and running rough. The radio is making a cricking sound as if someone is tapping a snare drum every few seconds. Pretty sure it is a ground somewhere or something erectricur. Anyone have any specific ideas as to what it courd be? Just when things were starting to run right, here comes the next probrem!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:25 pm 
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Check alt connections, the head to firewall ground, and battery ground.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:25 pm 
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Checked the battery connections this evening. Everything looked good, but I disconnected, cleaned, and reattached them anyway. Haven't checked the alternator connections yet, ran out of time. Tomorrow at work I'm gonna rebuilt and replace the head to firewall ground and check the alternator connections. I also cleaned the air filter and maf. Started the car and it seems to be running fine. I drove it around for awhile and had no problems. I had a cheap little amp in the trunk hooked to the battery, but no speakers hooked to it. I disconnected it while cleaning the battery connections and took it out of the car. I'm wondering if it had anything to do with it. The only reason I think it may is because the remote wire was hooked to it and ran to the stereo. I don't really think it would have anything to do with the way the car ran, but maybe the clicking sound. Who knows. I rebuilt the wiring harness last summer and I don't want to go through all that again for awhile...at least not on THIS car!!!!

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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2013 10:29 pm 
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Update:
For the last 3 weeks, the car has been idling really rough and stumbling while driving, especially on the highway. So I ran the self diagnosis with the ecu led and it gave a code 45 (leaky injector). On Saturday the 11th I checked the injectors, replaced the fuel filter and fuel hoses along with the spark plugs. It ran good until the next day when I tried to adjust the idle. Fuel started spraying from injector #4. I pulled the injector and noticed that the upper O-ring was ripped. I did this while reinstalling them, I'm sure. I didn't have any spares on me, so Monday I drove my truck to work and stopped by the junk yard after work to get some injectors from the first Altima I found. Got new ones out of three different cars! Now I have about 12 extra injectors!
When I left the junk yard the truck wouldn't start. I think it is jealous because I spend so much time on the car. Had to have the truck towed home and finally got there at 10pm. After a quick dinner I went out and replaced all the injectors in the car. Started it up and it ran fine, meaning there were no fuel leaks.
Went to the KC2K13 car show and the car was running pretty good until Sunday afternoon. Same bullshit again. Rough idle, stumbling, loss of power, bad mpg. Really pissed at this point. Forced the car to make it to work this Monday and when I got home I pulled the tuned ecu. Replaced it with the stock (no tune) ecu and stock maf sensor. Actually have more power now and car is running great so far. I really hope its the other maf causing the problem and not the tune. I've had so much trouble with tunes I don't wanna go through that again! Might as well just run stock if that's the problem.
Any ideas?
I've done all the different diagnostic procedures in the FSM and everything checks out.

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