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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 4:10 pm 
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So, I know its been a really long time since I've done an update. This is mostly because I haven't done anything since around May. Just drive the car to and from work everyday and just deal with/ignore the problems. Car is running great, but I've been wanting to change out the rack and pinion for awhile now. So, this past Sunday I did just that. Installed another rack and pinion with new inner and outer tie rods and bellows. This job takes everyone else on the forums about 3 hours they say. Mine took me from 9am till about 10pm on Sunday. It was a real BITCH. Those power steering hard lines going into the rack are a real pain in the ass. After about 2 hours of fucking with them I finally got them to thread in properly. No cross threads and now I have a rack and pinion with no leaks.
I still need an alignment, but I just need to schedule that.
Feels great anyway and I can do some minor adjustments myself to make it comfortable.
Yesterday, I replaced the foam between the radiator and the core support with some leftover scrap from work. While I did this, my dumbass didn't take the intake pipe completely off, I just moved it out of the way to get the brackets clear of the radiator/core support gap. Since I didn't take it completely off, and just moved it back out of the way, I didn't think to make sure the intake pipe was fitted properly into the throttle body coupling. So, I get up to go to work this morning and the car runs like shit all the way to work and back home. Pop the hood and what do I find? The intake pipe halfway out of the coupler! 10 second fix. DERP!!!

Next on the list is new FLCA's with ball joints, and an ISIS control arm package!
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/*ISIS-Suspension-Arm-Package-%252d-Nissan-240sx-89%252d94.html
After that, the suspension should be complete for a bit.

BTW, does anyone happen to have an extra stock KADE exhaust manifold and downpipe for super cheap? I'm tired of this damn ebay header hitting the steering knuckle. Had to grind it down some more after installing the new rack to clear the header.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 5:49 am 
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I'll be back in Kansas in October for PCS leave, I might actually have one in my garage. I'll let you know dude.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 8:05 pm 
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Thanks James! Keep me posted.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 12:39 am 
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Just inventoried my parts. Not a header to be found. Sorry bro.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 2:25 pm 
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It's all good, James! Glad to hear that you're back inconus! Welcome home!

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:18 pm 
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Heater fan not blowing air out of vents. May need new blower motor. Not sure yet. Need to troubleshoot. Lately I've had to tap the motor to wake it up when I want it to work, which is usually early in the morning. This morning it didn't work at all. Made the drive to work really shitty.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 12:13 am 
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Had that happen the other day. Check your fuses under driver side kick. Also check those relays on the driver side of the bay. Worked for me replacing those things. Maybe bad ground?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 5:40 pm 
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Thanks. Still gotta check it out. Army drill all day today and tomorrow. Too tired to work on now.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 1:31 am 
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Been awhile since an update since its too cold to do anything. Here goes: Not really a "build" update, but here's the problem.
Cars been running crappy for about 2 months now. Missing and rough idle, loss of power, etc.
Wednesday and Thursday the car would warm up fine and the temp gauge was right in the middle where it should be, but the heater just blows cold air.
Friday, same thing. No heat. Almost home from work and the car just shuts down on 291. Smelled of burned oil. I check the oil and its 2 quarts low. It never leaks oil. I let it cool down for about 10 minutes and finally it started. Made it home.
Saturday morning (today) I added some coolant thinking that it was low and the coolant wasn't making it to the heater core. The car idled (still a little rough) and the temp gauge was where it should be. Still no warm air out of the vents.
I also got new oil and filter, spark plugs, cap and rotor. After changing the oil and filter, I started on the spark plugs. The plug wires wouldn't come out of the valve cover. They broke right off when pulled.
So tonight I bought new plug wires along with a new thermostat and radiator cap.
Tomorrow morning I'll be changing all of that out. I also have an extra IACV that I've been cleaning up at work. I'll be changing that out too.
Hopefully all of this works and corrects the cooling issue and the way the cars been running. I've been fairly lucky with the way the motors been running since I did the swap in May of 2008. If anyone has an ideas on what it could be other than what I plan on replacing tomorrow please let me know. I've got to have the car running tomorrow so I can make it to work Monday!
Thanks!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 7:25 pm 
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Worked on the car in the shop all day today. Changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, new thermostat, and radiator cap. New oil and filter, and new coolant. After burping the system, the car ran great! Drove it home from Front St. to Lee's Summit with little problems. At first, the temp gauge started to rise about one mark. It quickly went back down to the middle and stayed there! The heat started working too after a bit. I think I need to flush out the heater core because the lower hose was getting warm/hot like it should and the upper hose stayed cool. We'll see how it goes in the next few days.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 8:39 pm 
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Car overheated on the way home from work tonight, coolant in the oil. Blown head gasket. No problem to change, but not sure if the head is warped. Would rather just get another head and replace everything. Water pump, hoses, belts, etc.
Fuck my life. Any other time of the year it wouldn't bother me too much. At least I don't have to be to work until Monday at 4pm. Anybody got a good spare KA24de head laying around?

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 11:01 am 
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Sorry to hear that brother! Good luck and I hope you can knock it out quickly.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 1:57 pm 
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After changing the head and setting all the timing correctly, the car is still giving me problems. When it does start, it will start right up and idle. Any movement of the distributor will kill it. When I shut the car back off and try to start it again, it just cranks. #1 piston at top dead center, both valves face out like they should, rotor set to #1 spark plug wire. I'm at my wits end with this. I need this car for work and I can't get rides forever. Please help!

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 7:18 pm 
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Just a shot in the dark here but since you changed the plugs, wires, cap and distributor, have you checked the coil? I'd OHM it out via FSM specs and see how it comes out... Just a thought. Could be off on this.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 8:25 pm 
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Got her running today! It was temperamental, but I finally got the timing set to 20btdc and the idle to 750rpm. Temp gauge still goes up and down, but the heater works. I think I just still have some air in the system. Thanks to everyone who helped, especially Ben!

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 1:10 pm 
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Nerfherder wrote:
Got her running today! It was temperamental, but I finally got the timing set to 20btdc and the idle to 750rpm. Temp gauge still goes up and down, but the heater works. I think I just still have some air in the system. Thanks to everyone who helped, especially Ben!

what was the culprit?

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 4:23 pm 
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My dumb ass trying to set the distributor timing to TDC and not 20BTDC. I was going by what the FSM said for setting the cams and timing chain. I realized Friday night that it had to be at 20 before for the ignition timing. DERP! I should have known this. This wasn't my first rodeo.
All this week, I hadn't been letting the engine warm up to normal operating temperature before trying to set the idle and timing. Along with realizing that the timing had to be at 20 before, I thought about the fact that it should idle fast to warm up the engine. I was setting the idle before it warmed up, and therefore when it did warm up the idle dropped too low for it to run. DERP again!

I've got some rattling noise coming from the front area of the engine now. All timing chain guides have been removed except for the passenger side cam chain guide and the lower guide (both of which provide pressure to the chain). This concerns me because the rattling wasn't there before changing the head. Everything has been torqued properly too. Cam bolts, Upper sprocket bolt, Cam caps, etc.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 1:29 am 
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Went out this evening and now it won't start. Back to square one!

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:44 pm 
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Nerfherder wrote:
Went out this evening and now it won't start. Back to square one!

Fuck! something else is happening....

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 3:24 pm 
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I got it to start, but the idle is unstable and after awhile it dies. I've checked for air leaks and cannot find any.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:36 pm 
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Last week I hauled the car to my friends house in Cameron. Today I pulled the engine and transmission. Gonna have to change the head gasket again because I was a broke dumbass when I changed the head gasket in February and didn't replace the head bolts. So, I pulled the engine and transmission and I'm just gonna get the full gasket kit and replace all the seals and gaskets while I'm at it.
Also, I finally removed the damn auto transmission converter piece of shit that wasn't allowing me to insert the pilot bearing into the crankshaft. (since the engine came from an auto car)
Here's a lift of what I need to get her back on the road:
Head checked (and maybe surfaced)
Full gasket kit (including and most importantly the Head gasket)
Head bolts (duh)
Pilot bearing (its kind of important although I haven't used one since the motor was installed in 2008)
Radiator hoses (because, just because)
Full clutch kit (including throwout bearing)
All the fluids (oil, antifreeze, trans)

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 9:29 pm 
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Last Thursday I pulled the motor and transmission out of the car, separated them and found my clutch was shot again. I removed the damn A/T adapter bearing from the crankshaft so I can finally install a pilot bushing. This had better fix this problem.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 9:25 pm 
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Well today is a good day! I finally got the car all back together again, filled it with fluids, set the crankshaft to 20 degrees before top dead center, put the distributor in with the rotor facing #1 plug wire, installed the battery and started the car. It started right up, idled perfectly, and when I checked it with the timing light there was no adjustment needed. I let it warm up, added coolant as needed and drove it home from Cameron! The temp gauge stayed right there in the middle where it should! So happy! Before today, the car hasn't ran right since December!

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 12:40 am 
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Congrats to that... Now if only my car worked.


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