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Drifting the Midwest
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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 9:22 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
With the help of two national holidays, I am writing this closing out a four day weekend. I spent my days off working pretty much non-stop on the Silvia. And by some stroke of luck the weather cooperated and was beautiful all four days; quite the shocker because it is rainy season. Pictures were kind of sparse since some of it really needed no explanation and I was working to get as much done as I could before the sun went down.

Thursday, I spent a better part of the day prepping and painting the trunk lid. Turned out okay. I didn't take any pics.

Friday, I started out with an oil change and took the opportunity to put on my sandwich plate as well. However, as it was up in the air, I was looking at how easy it was to access everything. On my to do list is pull the fender liners and undercoat the wheel wells, so, diverting my attention from any fun mods, I pulled the driver fender liner and saw some surface rust. So I worked a bit more and pulled the fender.
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I then had one fender off so I pulled the other side. And since both sides were done, I pulled the front off as well. haha.
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How I masked it all off.
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Before I wrapped up for the night, I had it all sprayed with undercoat...but was then out of undercoat.

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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 9:23 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
Saturday, I started off with a simple install that I was pretty stoked to see on the car. Here's the before and after - spot what's different.
Before:
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After:
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Before:
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After:
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I then went to town and ran some errands and bought more supplies to let me finish up the project. A shot of the coated fender well.
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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 9:26 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
Sunday was again beautiful so I got back out there. With the fenders off, I knew this was the time to relocate the harness. I was kind of hem-hawing which way to do it - on the fender lip or relocate to the bay - but, after talking to Greg, I decided to do it right and move it to the bay. I did it on my S14 and remembered it being a pain in the ass. I wasn't really looking forward to it but Greg said it was pretty simple and no dash removal was necessary. So I got after it, these plugs come off the steering column:
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These are the three you need to un-do in the foot well (the two unclipped ones and the bolted one for the SMJ box):
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Pulling the big wheelwell grommet revealed some sound deadening stuff that needed to be broken off to make room for stuff to pass through (more was removed after this pic).
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Unplugged the BMC, and pulled it all forward.
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As I was stripping the looming, I realized I could save these snap-in ziptie mount things if I jammed a screw driver in the backside. Don't know when I'll need them but they seemed handy.
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I split the main loom into two equal halves then rewrapped them to make the harness thinner. You can see it all routed over the strut tower here. I also unbolted the hood latch and removed the cable, then ran cable through the bay as well. I did the same for the windshield washer fluid hose as well.
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Here's the finished product. On the S14, I had to cut the triangle hole to enlarge it to get the SMJ box through. This time around it looked pretty close as it was, and sure enough, I was able to reshape the triangle hole a bit with a couple hammer handles and pliers. The box could then pass through with no cutting required. I even got the protector plastic triangle piece back in there after snipping a relief cut.
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In the midst of all that fun, I was multitasking a few other projects - undercoating the back side of the fenders and cleaning up some rust in the spare tire well.
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I hit the rust spot with the wire wheel on the grinder then masked, primed, and undercoated it.
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Turned out pretty slick.
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I then got the frontend pretty much reassembled before it got really dark. I have a few things to finish up tomorrow but at least it looks like a drivable car again.

I am now fully exhausted but happy to have spent some time taking care of a few items that will help the Silvia stay genki. Maybe fun stuff next time!

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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 11:47 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Independence
" Stay Genki "
I like that. Maybe I should make a sticker.

Also diggin the metal Castrol gallon.

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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 11:24 pm 
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Feint Drifter

Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:28 pm
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Location: Independence, MO
ah i wish i could find black seats as clean as those. nice work on the coating too.


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 6:13 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
Gallon, zero? Pshhh, we're on the metric system baby. 4L for 1,200yen.

The stock seats aren't black. They are like a grey and darker grey marble-ish pattern. It's also soft like t-shirt texture. I've never seen it in the States only the standard gray tweed stuff. I'm not sure if these are JDM only fabric or if it was on other models...but this is a 1992 Silvia and I had a 1992 240SX coupe. Fabric is different.

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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 10:50 pm 
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Feint Drifter

Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:28 pm
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Location: Independence, MO
ya all i have ever seen is the nasty tweed seats. i have heard of a few s13 smooth fabric seats but havent tracked any down. i just need to go to japan and bring a ship load of parts back. haha


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 11:53 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Independence
I think re upholstering would be cheaper. And if I went to japan, lots of other things would be above s13 seats to fill up a container.
The black looks a lot better than the tweed. but S13 seats aren't the most comfortable, and you would have choices like 180sx type x seats, skyline seats, s15 seats, etc.

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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 6:00 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
Yeah, they're better looking/feeling than the USDM S13 seats but there's definitely better opitons out there. But yeah, I'm not a big fan of S13 seats for comfort and fitment.

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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 7:51 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
I picked up some parts this weekend. Not all stuff I'll use right away but just jumping on deals as they come along. I have a pretty crazy parts collection in my apartment. Much assembly required.

Parts list for now:

7 point roll cage
RUCAs
Oil block adapter
Oil filter relocation block
-10AN lines
Oil cooler
Urethane motor and trans mounts
Aero mirrors
Nardi Classic 330mm
IACV for the turbo SR

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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 5:34 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Independence
7 point? hows that work?

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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 11:46 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
Funky, huh? The diagonal bar between rear down bars is counted as the seventh point.

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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 11:57 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Independence
Funky indeed. Got any pictures of it or is it in pieces?

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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 7:04 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
Been installing the new ish here and there.

The old bushings were in depressingly great shape.
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Stock left. Attain Solid Shift right. You can see they are the same length (just a bit misleading in the photo).
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The big difference is the stock shifters rubber bushing that gives the shifter some flex.
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Non-existent on the Attain. Hence solid. And it is solid. Not heavier than stock and the shift knob is lighter than stock (all measured accurately using my hand scales).
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Midway with the new 330 Nardi in.
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For a shifter review, it is a noticeable difference. No flex when shifting. No easier nor no shorter stroke. Just less slope. It feels pretty cool. I've only driven around with it on the streets; no drifting yet. Also, the lower plastic bushing was fresh and snug so that also reduced some more play. Fun little upgrade. If I had a welder, I'd probably weld up the stock one to achieve similar results.

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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 12:14 am 
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Feint Drifter

Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:28 pm
Posts: 113
Location: Independence, MO
thats pretty sweet. i tried to research them a little. i did find them on rhdjapan for 11 thousand yen. haha


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 3:45 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
Some exciting pictures of parts! Woo-hoo. (Semi-mock enthusiasm.)

Roll cage.
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One corner of the apartment taken over.
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Miraas. Any idea what brand?
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Oil block made up by local ex-pat machinist.
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Mount set made by the same guy. The dude can seriously make anything.
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The foam padding on the cage has a couple drawbacks. One, it's blue - eww. Two, it's kind of faded and tore up in spots. New padding is expensive and it would be a pain to strip off the old padding. My plan is to try and wrap the cage to clean it up and give it some personality. I've had this fabric for a long time. Bought it because it was really cheap but never knew what I would use it on. It might be cool.
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 3:58 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Independence
How much for a set of those motor mounts for a miata. :P
Those are serious looking, with adjustable urethane inserts it looks like?

I had mounts similar to that in the 240 and liked them a lot.

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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 4:02 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
I spent yesterday afternoon cracking on the parts car's engine. It's had a pulsing idle around 2000rpm since I've bought it. I gathered up a list of possibilities and set about troubleshooting. Here's what I came up with. Input and ideas appreciated.

Intercooler: Damaged one had a hole. I replaced it with a new good one. Big leak gone.

Piping/couplers: Pulled and redid it all and didn't see any holes.

Vacuum lines: Simplified the crap mess that was going on. Shouldn't be leaks in the obvious stuff I could see.

MAF: I started the car and unplugged the MAF while it was running. It ran worse when it was unplugged so it seems the MAF is working.

TPS: I couldn't get any voltage readings on the TPS. I changed the TPS position and started the car. Instead of pulsing, it raced to like 3500rpm and held there. I then changed position of the TPS while it was running. In certain positions, it would race/idle at 3500rpm-ish and, in other positions, it would pulse around 2000rpm like normal. I changed the TPS with another and it did the same thing.

My last item to change/check is the IACV. I wanted to check everything else that was easy to access to reduce easy problems before pulling the IACV. I've ordered gaskets and have a used but good looking IACV to put on. I hope that's the problem.

What do you think about coolant temp sensor? Seems like it would cause different issues.

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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 4:05 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
AkaZero wrote:
How much for a set of those motor mounts for a miata. :P
Those are serious looking, with adjustable urethane inserts it looks like?

I had mounts similar to that in the 240 and liked them a lot.


Ha. No idea. He is selling all his SR stuff since he and his buddy are into RB S14's. But yeah, it looks like they come apart and you can change the bushings. I don't think I'll ever need to touch them.

I had Peak Performance mounts (Avid has since knocked them off) in my S14 that were very similar. Super stiff but burly. Little extra vibration. However, it will be nice to accelerate and not feel the engine rock.

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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 12:02 am 
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Feint Drifter

Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:28 pm
Posts: 113
Location: Independence, MO
my guess is east bear mirrors and are those oem chuki sideskirts?


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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 6:51 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
That's what I was thinking.

Not sure on the skirts. They are stock 180sx style but I don't think they are OEM. Super thin material but not fiberglass nor typical OEM urethane. I don't plan on using them. If I do skirts, they'll be OEM silvia since they are flat bottom.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:15 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
YAJ'd a few items.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:23 am 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Independence
I like that style of exhaust.

And is that turbo packed in shredded cardboard?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 11:47 am 
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Feint Drifter

Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:28 pm
Posts: 113
Location: Independence, MO
ooooh. it's beginning to look a lot like christmas


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:34 pm 
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Proven Drifter
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Location: Okinawa, Japan / Bartlesville, OK
The exhaust is a Trust DD. After I clean it up, it should look awesome (and be pretty loud). I have a thing for rare and discontinued exhausts.

The turbo is a S15 Spec R turbo with the S13 clocking adapters and the S15 oil drain. It's on the new version S15 manifold which is supposed to be the best stock SR manifold.

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